BINT JBAIL, SOUTH LEBANON - I drove to Hezbollah's stronghold in South Lebanon to survey the devastation from the war in July, to check in on the United Nations peacekeeping force, and to talk to civilians who were used as human shields in the battle with Israel. My American journalist friend Noah Pollak from Azure Magazine in Jerusalem went with me. We went under the escort of two professional enemies of Hezbollah who work for the Lebanese Committee for UNSCR 1559, an NGO which closely advises the Lebanese government and the international community on the disarmament of illegal militias in Lebanon.
The two men picked us up at our hotel first thing in the morning.
Said (pronounced Sah-EED) rode up to the front door on his motorcycle. Henry arrived in his car.
"Good morning, gentlemen," Said said as he shook our hands. "Shall we go in your car?"
"If you prefer," I said.
It was probably better that way. Hezbollah Secretary General Hassan Nasrallah hysterically accuses Toni Nissi, the man Henry and Said work for, of heading up "the Beirut branch of the Israeli Mossad." Best, I thought, to show up in Hezbollah’s bombed-out southern "capital" of Bint Jbail in a rental car rather than one that might be recognized.
It's not worth taking Hezbollah's "Mossad" accusation seriously. Nasrallah also says Prime Minister Fouad Seniora is a "Zionist hand" because he is pushing for Hezbollah's disarmament.
"Let me drive," Said said. "It is better. We know the best roads to take."
Toni insisted these guys were the best. Not only do they know their way around the back roads of South Lebanon, they are battle-hardened infantry veterans of Lebanon's civil war. I seriously doubted we would need their services as trained killers, but it was nice to have that skill set in our back pockets while venturing into the heartland of an illegal warmongering militia.
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