Sudan Guest Blogs: Impressions (2/3)
By Lawrence T. Peter, Winds of Change Guest Blogger
Lawrence T. Peter is a former Naval Intelligence officer (ret. 1998). A final assignment with the Naval Special Warfare Development Group brought him back to America in 1994, after 10 previous years overseas in Panama, England and Italy with detours to Gulf War I et. al.-- -- --In 1999, he became Director of the Fusion Centre (politically acceptable term for an information collection, analysis and dissemination effort) of the OSCE Kosovo Verification Mission. That experience led to his recent Sudan assignment, as part of a group of international monitors in an effort called the Joint Military Commission Nuba Mountains (JMC). Now that he has returned, Lawrence Peter's analysis and travelogues are a Winds of Change exclusive!
[II.] Reality is often different than perception and my preconceptions of Sudan, from what I understood before coming here to what I understand now, have changed greatly. At the most basic, my going-in sense of Sudan was that of a very hostile, anti-American and dangerous place. Yet, two months into the assignment, I was attempting to bring my family for a one to three month visit, putting my daughters in the local Comboni School (Catholic – attended by Christians and non-Christians alike) for cultural immersion and experience. As it turned out, unfortunately, the visit could not be arranged, but the idea that I would be sufficiently comfortable with the security environment to even consider such a proposal shows how far my perceptions have changed.
Although one hears a lot about how the Sudanese government is difficult, manipulative and hostile toward virtually anything and everything that it perceives may threaten its power, the Sudanese people, by and large, are much different than their government. They love America. This is the story one doesn’t hear. In El Obied, I am one of about three white people in a town of 300,000 or so. Yet, I sense no hostility, no anger, no resentment, only appreciation and a strong welcome for me in my capacity as the representative of the JMC (which for the Sudanese is synonymous with peace) and as an American, which for every Sudanese I have met so far, is about the best thing that they can imagine (that is, an American in their midst). There are not many Washington pinstripers, although from time to time a US diplomat does pass through. On a day-to-day basis I am America, I perform ‘diplomatic representation’ and -- you know what? -- the Sudanese folks I meet think America can do no wrong. I find myself telling them America is not as great as they think, not because America is not great, but because no reality can be as splendid as the opinion they hold of the USA.
In the late 1980s Sudan experienced a severe drought. Then-Vice President Bush visited Sudan, and actually came to El Obied. According to legend (and that is the character this story has acquired) Bush promised the United States would provide grain and seed to help the Sudanese. The USA delivered on this promise and today, fields of wheat or sorghum or whatever are referred to as fields of Reagan (as in "the Reagan is growing well this year. . ."). Also, because of the promise, many Sudanese families named their sons after George Bush (e.g. Bush al Sa’ad or Bush Ismail Ahmed Elhaj).
Still today, probably 90-95% of all the United Nations World Food Program Sudan relief comes from the United States (my guestimate—WFP had no specific figures to share, but frequent first-hand observations of the WFP distribution sub-office El Obied are the basis of the figure). Much of this grain is re-bagged for airdrop, consequently the end recipients don’t always know from where the relief comes. (If I were king, I would have a small American flag—like a Craker Jack prize--put inside every bag before it was sealed.)
But, even in the deepest corners, the Sudanese know about America. I had a small (12"x18" US flag sewn inside my vest. When I’ve visited villagers at some small dirt airstrip deep in the bush, and talked with them, eventually I’d be asked from what country I had come. I’d of course tell them America and then take off my vest to show the crowd. This small act always results in cheers. Just the sight of the Stars and Stripes was a nourishment of sorts for these impoverished people.
III. In Sudan, information transmission is difficult at best. Much of the flow of information is by word of mouth. Illiteracy rate is high. One of the ways I’ve attempted to get information into the Nuba Mountains is through the priests. After explaining to the assembled priests what the JMC was doing and answering to the best of my ability, I also handed them about four thousand leaflets. I am making up these leaflets on the fly, getting them translated then reproduced in five or ten thousand quantities. You would not believe the response, the overwhelming positive response from the Sudanese who get these. When I go into a souk to pass the leaflets out, I am literally flooded with hands, with Sudanese pushing and shoving to get what it is I have to give.
The international community and America have may soon realize a "success" in Sudan. Reports daily suggest that the civil war, now twenty years and counting may soon come to an end across the country, not just in the Nuba Mountains. I tell many Sudanese (and Americans), " You know, America and Sudan have much in common, we are much closer than you might think." There are always raised eyebrows at this suggestion, but patience and politeness—hallmarks of the Sudanese response to me, give me the opportunity to make my case. I tell them: "First, American and Sudan are both blessed with tremendous mineral and agricultural wealth. Second, both America and Sudan understand what it is like to be a colony of the British; America cast off the cloak of King George III tyranny on 4 July 1776. Although independence didn’t come to Sudan until 1 January 1956, we both share that legacy." "Finally," I tell them, "160 years ago America experienced the horror of a civil war, when brother fights brother and family fights family. Today, in America, there are still families deeply scared by that war. If my presence here can help you bring an end to your civil war, then my efforts are worthwhile. The international community cannot make Sudan be peaceful, we can only help Sudanese find peace among themselves."
IV. I have taken many digital images of my short stay in Sudan and loaded them onto a website accessible to anyone:
This site has roughly 250 images. While many are of operational interest (airfields and facilities) some are more cultural in nature. For example, I think the images of the Khartoum Cathedral and the El Obied Church are particularly interesting. The parishioners of these magnificent Churches are very active. For me it was a real joy to hear mass, even if in Arabic, of which I understand very little. Another favorite is of the local Starbucks. El Obied has hundreds of these micro-Starbucks at work every day. But no latte—too hard to keep fresh milk!