BEIRUT -- I met the wizened Druze warlord and Progressive Socialist Party leader Walid Jumblatt during Hezbollah's ongoing slow-motion putsch to topple Lebanon's government. No other high-profile "March 14" leader matches Jumblatt's fierce opposition to Syria's Assad regime, its Iranian patron, and its Hezbollah proxy militia. He spends most of his time in his castle at Mukhtara high above Beirut in the Chouf mountains, but he took time out between meeting members of the Socialist International at his house in the capital to meet me for coffee in his salon.

Jumblatt's history with the imperial Baath government is a long and twisting one. His father Kamal was assassinated by Syrian agents during the civil war in 1977. The details of the assassination are shrouded in mystery even today. In the most common version Baath-aligned terrorists in the Syrian Social Nationalist Party pulled the trigger. Another (unreliable) version of the story goes like this, as told to me by a young Druze friend while we stood on the murder site in the Chouf: Kamal Jumblatt was ambushed on the forested road by two Palestinian gunmen. The Palestinian hit men reported to Damascus after the deed was finished. Two Syrian exterminators then shot Assad's Palestinian agents and buried them in the desert. The two Syrian hit men were then murdered by yet two more Syrian hit men, all the better to cover the tracks of original and cover-up crimes.

I don't know what actually happened. Syria's decades--ong assassination and terrorist war in and against Lebanon has always been fought, serial killer style, from the shadows. Diabolical theories about the precise methods of Syrian terrorism serve Syrian interests just as much as the murders themselves serve Syrian interests.

Shortly after inheriting his father's leadership position, Walid Jumblatt was summoned to Damascus by its ruthless ruler Hafez Assad. When he meekly objected to what the Syrian regime expected of him, Assad smiled and lovingly said "You know, Walid, I look at you sitting there and you remind me exactly of your dear father."

A Lebanese friend drove me to his house and warned me that security would be tight at the gate. "The Syrians, Michael, if they catch him they will cut off his head."

Sure enough Jumblatt's security agents leapt from their plastic chairs and aggressively approached me at the entrance. They weren't hostile, as Hezbollah's security agents often are, but they moved fast as though they expected I might draw a weapon and open fire at any moment.

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